Wine is an integral part of Vienna – just like St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Schönbrunn Palace and the Vienna Boys’ Choir. Viennese wine is not just to be found in the traditional heuriger. It is in the process of conquering the entire city.
Vienna and wine are inseparable. Vienna is the only world capital to produce significant quantities of wine within the city limits. And wine cultivation is one of its hallmarks. But there is more to Viennese wine than that – it is an economic factor, a defining element of the urban image, a contribution to the urban ecosystem but also to people’s wellbeing – for both the Viennese and the guests to this city. In a worldwide first, a new law enacted at the start of 2015 stipulated that the Austrian capital’s vineyards had to be used for winegrowing to prevent valuable growing regions from falling prey to real estate developers – effective heritage listing the city’s vineyards.
For years wine was almost only associated with the heuriger, the typical Viennese wine tavern but in the meantime, it has almost become a household word. Vienna is becoming ever more established as a wine-growing region. Each year Viennese wine is the central focus of numerous events and has become a fixture in many wine bars, wine shops and inns of the city. In short: Viennese wine is readily available and can be enjoyed at many spots in the city.
The Viennese Heuriger
Around 70% of the annual yield is drunk at the capital’s heuriger. Today’s wine tavern law goes back to an ordinance issued by Emperor Josef II in the year 1784. It allowed wine growers to serve wine produced in their own vineyards. A place where the Viennese heuriger wine is offered can be recognized by the Ausg’steckt sign and the fir branch which also indicates that the tavern is open. These two symbols also guarantee that only self-produced Viennese wines are served here. The relaxed atmosphere, the gardens on the edge of town, the good wine and the tasty delicacies make the heuriger a popular destination for a diverse public. Viennese heuriger wine tavern culture was added to the UNESCO World Intangible Cultural Heritage database in 2019. The Wiener Top-Heurigen association was founded in response to a Vienna Chamber of Agriculture initiative designed to reposition the authentic Viennese wine tavern segment and provide a clear and credible quality promise for patrons. Potential members must satisfy a raft of requirements and criteria: starting by restricting eligibility to “original” wine taverns that fit the definitions of a Heuriger or Buschenschank as enshrined in the purpose-built Buschenschankgesetz act. Other criteria apply, including general ambience, the friendliness of service and the quality of food and drink on sale. To date, 18 establishments have secured admission to this exclusive club. A complete list, including opening hours and a route planner for each of the participating top heuriger, can be found here: http://www.wienerwein.at/wiener-top-heuriger
Almost forgotten even among locals, the German word Heuriger also has a second meaning besides wine tavern – it also denotes the current vintage, which is officially christened on St. Martin’s Day (November 11). On this day the following year, what was the Heuriger vintage officially becomes Altwein.
Vienna as a Wine Region
Vienna is not only a province and the capital of a province. It is also wine-growing region in its own right with a wine-growing surface of about 575 hectares, around 140 growers and average annual production of 2.4 million liters. About 80% of the area under cultivation is covered with white wine vines. Wine types such as Riesling, Weissburgunder, Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc and Gelber Muskateller produce distinctly fruity and elegant wines. The Viennese wine is influenced both by the Pannonian climate contributing to its maturity and the cool winds from the north lending it fresh and fruity notes. A perfect interplay of forces, producing wines that are fun to drink and are the perfect accompaniment to a heuriger snack or Viennese cuisine.
Honored for Outstanding Ecological Quality
Viennese winegrowers are also producing excellent bottled wines that are very popular in Viennese restaurants. Regular awards at samplings organized by renowned specialist journals and at the SALON Austrian Wine confirm the high quality of these wines. Precisely due to its proximity to the city Viennese wine growers see an ecologically sound and sustainable cultivation of their vineyards as a particular concern. Some even go one step further. Today, around a dozen Viennese winemakers, including famous names such as Wieninger, Christ and Zahel, apply biodynamic cultivation methods in their vineyards. This means refraining entirely from systemic fertilizers and instead using natural extracts for plant protection, such as teas that serve to strengthen plants in the wine gardens in the tradition of homeopathy. The Wien Cobenzl estate has been under the stewardship of the City of Vienna for more than a hundred years – following a period of transition due to end in 2023, all of its wines will be certified organic.
Field Blend – A Viennese Specialty Returns
One specialty among Viennese wines is the Field Blend (Wiener Gemischter Satz). Already in the 19th century, when in most of the other Austrian winegrowing regions high-yielding grapes were being produced, Viennese winemakers focused more on quality grapes such as Riesling, Rotgipfler, Weissburgunder and Traminer. They were mixed with grapes of different varieties and planted, harvested and vinified together. The resulting wines were not only very multi-layered and complex, merging various qualities such as freshness, fruitiness and rich body. They also meant secure yields for the winemaker. Given the different bloom times of the grapes even unfavorable weather conditions during the bloom period never endangered the entire harvest but only specific grapes. After having been hardly visible for a very long time as a simple wine from the tap at heuriger, the Gemischter Satz has been experiencing a renaissance for several years now. This very typical, characteristic Viennese wine is sold as a light and succulent wine but also as an intense, complex top bottled wine.
WienWein – joining forces for Viennese Wine
Vienna’s best and most active winemakers joined forces in 2006 to create the group WienWein (www.wienwein.at). The members of WienWein share an uncompromising commitment to quality and enthusiasm for wine which go far beyond the rim of the glass. The WienWein group is now made up of the wineries Christ, Cobenzl (winegrowing estate owned by the City of Vienna), Edlmoser, Fuhrgassl-Huber, Mayer am Pfarrplatz and Wieninger.
From the beginning, a major interest of the group has been to revive the classic Viennese field blend (“Wiener Gemischter Satz). A special regulation for the Wiener Gemischter Satz, defining its profile, entered into force in April 2011. It stipulates that the wine must be 100% from Viennese vineyards, planted with at least three grape varieties, which are harvested and processed together. No single variety should make up more than 50% of the blend and the third must account for at least 10%. This unique Viennese product has been added to the Ark of Taste of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity and designated a Presidio by the Italy-based Foundation.
This honor is intended to protect quality production and traditional processing methods from the advance of industrial agriculture and food manufacturing, safeguarding them for future generations. From the 2013 vintage onwards, Wiener Gemischter Satz wines have enjoyed DAC status, a quality seal that guarantees their origin. In 2009 the group planted a 1,000 square meter vineyard in the Schlosspark in front of Schönbrunn Palace, in an area that had been cultivated for wine production until the mid-18th century. Each vintage is auctioned off for charity.
Traditional Viennese Wineries
The Krems-based Vereinigung der Österreichischen Traditionsweingüter (Association of Austrian Traditional Wine Estates, ÖTW) was founded in 1992 with the goal of establishing a meaningful, sustainable, yet flexible classification system for different vineyards. In 2018, the system was extended with the cooperation of the WienWein group to admit Vienna and Carnuntum, which joined the Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental and Wagram appellations. Classification of vineyards not only extends to soils and climatic criteria, but also reflects the fact that these areas have been used to produce excellent wines over a period of many years. Membership is testament to both the terroir and the winemakers’ craft. The Vienna winegrowing region now has eight members and twelve ÖTW Erste Lage 1ÖTW (equivalent to premier cru) classified vineyards:
Bisamberg:
Ried Falkenberg
Ried Wiesthalen
Nussberg:
Ried Gollin
Ried Langteufel
Ried Preussen
Ried Rosengartel
Ried Ulm
Grinzing:
Ried Schenkenberg
Ried Seidenhaus
Ried Steinberg
Maurerberg:
Ried Himmel
Ried Sätzen
Wine & Architecture
Based on long-standing traditions wine cultivation in Vienna has undergone rapid modernization in recent years. A visible sign of this are the architecturally sophisticated cellar constructions and heuriger built in a new contemporary style. The special location in the city required that already existing buildings be sensibly connected with new functional constructions. An example of this is Fritz Wieninger in Vienna-Stammersdorf who had an old monastery cellar restored and combined with a radically modern designed working wing. Also worth seeing is Rainer Christ’s vinery and heuriger in Vienna-Jedlersdorf. With a lot of stone, exposed concrete, glass and wood a new cellar building was constructed that meets all the demands of today’s wine production. In addition, a new, simple but inviting heuriger area was designed and constructed, creating an appealing contrast to the existing, traditional heuriger. Weingut Hajsan Neumann where top German chef Juan Amador set up his restaurant Amador (3 Michelin stars in 2020) is all about transparency. From the guest rooms patrons have a free view of the extensive brick vaults of the cellar where the wine is stored.
Two examples of a modern interpretation of the classical heuriger are Hans Peter Göbel’s tavern in the Stammersdorfer Kellergasse and Johannes Wiltschko’s tavern in Vienna-Mauer. Göbel, an architect by training, planned the interior design of his tavern. He replaced dark wood and baroque elements with simple and clear lines. Wiltschko went one step further. Looking out on the vineyards one sits here in the heuriger-lounge in comfortable seats and on leather-covered corner benches. There is also a sit-down bar in the center of the room. Guests feel good here since the selection of materials and sophisticated lighting effects create a cozy ambience.
Wine Calendar – Events linked to Viennese Wine
Wine has existed in Vienna for more than 2,000 years – but it is only in recent years that the Danube metropolis has blossomed into a wine city. The spring is ushered in with wine tastings, hikes during the vine bloom season and musical events at heurigers ranging from jazz brunches to folk music and ‘Schrammel’ music evenings. The highlight of the spring winegrowing season is the presentation of the Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC at City Hall in March. The highpoint of the wine year is the Viennese Wine Prize, which is also traditionally awarded at City Hall. At the opening ceremony the province’s winners are personally congratulated by the Mayor of Vienna. Summerstage on the banks of the Danube Canal is the venue for the Weinkulturfestival in July and August: presentations of wines, tasting menus and readings are just some of the highlights lined up at the special wine pavilion. Vienna Wine Walk day is held in fall, taking in a number of the capital’s districts. Along the way, wine growers treat visitors to tastings of Viennese wine and culinary delicacies. From November, the Young Viennese are the first harbingers of the new vintage, luring scores of visitors to the city’s heurigers and wineries.
Vienna not only offers a backdrop for Viennese wine. It is also a regular stage for international large-scale events. In a two-year rhythm the wine scene gets together at the international wine fair VieVinum in the noble setting of the Vienna Hofburg (www.vievinum.at). And with the AWC Vienna International Wine Challenge the engaged wine grower Michael Edlmoser has launched the largest wine sampling and award event in Vienna. The winning wines are presented each year in fall at a major event in the ceremony hall in the Vienna City Hall. (www.awc-vienna.at)
Viennese Wine: A Long History in a Nutshell
Grape seed findings prove that already the Celts and the Illyrians produced wine 500 years B.C. in the Vienna area. But only the Romans introduced cultivated wine growing to the city, by planting quality from Italy on the existing vines. Emperor Probus (232-282 A.D.) lifted the ban imposed on the areas north of the Alps and allowed his legionaries to plant grapes and cultivate wine. There are hardly any written records documenting wine cultivation in Vienna after the Roman Period but in the late Middle Ages the largest part of the later Viennese districts were planted with vines. Vienna’s citizens already had wine garden inside and outside of the city in the 12th and 13th centuries and these continued to exist to the 16th century.
Thanks to the proximity of the wine gardens to inhabited areas a special kind of wine sale – the Heuriger – evolved very early in time. It is not entirely clear when the first heuriger opened but we do know that already then wine was served in the cellars and bourgeois homes in and right outside the city. With the growing construction following the Turkish occupation of 1529 and the big reconstruction after the second Turkish occupation of 1683, the heuriger tavern was increasingly moved to the outskirts where it is still concentrated today.
There was a lot of wine consumption in the Middle Ages – according to estimates it was six times higher in the late Middle Ages than it is today! Alone in the wine taverns an average of 120 liters per capita of the Viennese population was drunk towards the end of the 16th century. This heyday was followed by gradual disillusionment. The cultivated wine surface and wine consumption continued to decline and in 1815 the Viennese ‘only’ drank 87 liters per capita. In 1870, shortly before the vine pest disaster, consumption had even declined to 40 liters which was also a result of the tightened tax policy, the introduction of the retail measure for wine and the growing competition of coffee and beer. Due to both world wars it took a long time for viniculture to recover after the vine louse disaster. Thanks to consistent protection measures introduced in the Viennese vineyards and a general upswing in quality Vienna wine is once again flourishing.
View from the vineyards
From mid-April to the end of October, the vineyards are also open to visitors: on Fridays, weekends and public holidays, when the weather is fine, Viennese wine can be enjoyed not only in the heuriger wine taverns themselves, but outdoors on the hillside vineyards and at pop-up heuriger – in many cases offering picturesque views over the city. Further information and a list of businesses that serve their wine and other specialties in the vineyards can be found at www. wienerwein.at.
Selected heuriger wine taverns in Vienna
Ausblick.Wien – Weingut Dr. Höfler
A contemporary ambience and wonderful views of Vienna from the rooftop terrace on the Stammersdorfer Kellergasse cellar lane. Organic fish and game specialties are the perfect pairing for the wine.
Stammersdorfer Kellergasse 109, 1210 Wien, www.derweinkeller.wien
Christ
Modern winery, and a heuriger under excellent management, looking back on 400 years of tradition. The wines are some of the city’s best.
Amtsstraße 10-14, 1210 Wien, www.weingut-christ.at
Lentner
Delicious buffet and multi-award-winning wines in one of the top traditional Heuriger wine taverns in “Transdanubia” (i.e. the other side of the Danube).
Amtsstraße 44, 1210 Wien, www.karl-lentner.com
Edlmoser
The Edlmoser wine estate won numerous sampling competitions with its wines that are influenced by the new world style. The fantastic buffet is just as impressive as the noble wines.
Maurer Lange Gasse 123, 1230 Wien, www.edlmoser.at
Fuhrgassl-Huber
Renowned big heuriger that fulfills all wishes. Recommendation: the Riesling from Nussberg.
Neustift am Walde 68, 1190 Wien, www.fuhrgassl-huber.at
Göbel
Modern setting in Vienna’s only cellar lane. The red wines are of top caliber.
Stammersdorfer Kellergasse 131, 1210 Wien, www.weinbaugoebel.at
Hengl-Haselbrunner
Excellent whites and reds – fine food and live music every Tuesday from the city’s top Wiener Lied artists and other fantastic performers.
Iglaseegasse 10, 1190 Wien, www.hengl-haselbrunner.at
Hofer
Small but perfectly formed Heuriger wine tavern in the suburb of Mauer – fantastic reds are among the highlights.
Maurer Lange Gasse 29, 1230 Wien, www.vino-hofer.at
Kierlinger
Traditional heuriger in a historic setting – the Liptauer cheese is Vienna’s best.
Kahlenberger Straße 20, 1190 Wien, www.kierlinger.at
Mayer am Pfarrplatz
Beethoven is among Mayer am Pfarrplatz’s former patrons. A must for every visitor to Vienna. Guests can look forward to multi-award-winning wines from the Mayer am Pfarrplatz and Rotes Haus estates.
Pfarrplatz 2, 1190 Wien, www.pfarrplatz.at
Bioweinbau Obermann
Martin Obermann’s laid-back organic wines can be enjoyed with a delicious slow-food-inspired snack – in one of the last surviving truly authentic Heuriger wine taverns in Grinzing. The art of conscious enjoyment.
Cobenzlgasse 102, 1190 Wien, www.weinbauobermann.at
Schübel-Auer
Classic Nussdorf heuriger in an old winery with an attractive garden and cultural events.
Kahlenberger Straße 22, 1190 Wien, www.schuebel-auer.at
Steinklammer
300 years of tradition, a beautiful garden and excellent wines come together to create the perfect Viennese blend.
Jesuitensteig 28, 1230 Wien, www.heuriger.co.at
Buschenschank Stift St. Peter
Located in the Benedictine monastery of St. Peter since 1042, this legendary tavern was immortalized in a famous Wiener Lied song entitled “Der Dornbacher Pfarrer steckt aus”. The fine wines from the Alsegg vineyard in Dornbach are produced by the Mayer am Pfarrplatz estate.
Rupertusplatz 5, 1170 Wien, www.stiftpeter.at
Weingut Walter Wien
Charming little heuriger in the vineyards where relative newcomer to the industry Norbert Walter serves up cheese and Speck from his Tyrolean homeland alongside outstanding wines.
Untere Jungenberggasse 7, 1210 Wien, www.weingut-walter-wien.at
Wieninger Heuriger
Excellent cuisine and wine – the Wieninger is a heuriger as you can only hope for.
Stammersdorfer Straße 78, 1210 Wien, www.heuriger-wieninger.at
Weingut Wieninger
Featuring impressive architecture that combines the old and the new, cellar tours, tastings, cellar door sales.
Stammersdorfer Straße 31, 1210 Wien, www.wieninger.at
Winzerhof Leopold
Cozy ambience with a lot of light wood, great buffet and many-time provincial winner of wine prizes. The red wines in particular are highly recommended.
Stammersdorfer Straße 18, 1210 Wien, www.winzerhof-leopold.at
Wiltschko
The wine lounge in the vineyards – a heuriger of the new generation with light cuisine and fine wines.
Wittgensteinstraße 143, 1230 Wien, www.weinbau-wiltschko.at
Zahel
Heuriger with fine restaurant and outstanding red wines from Mauer and white wines from top locations on the Nussberg.
Maurer Hauptplatz 9, 1230 Wien, www.zahel.at
All member restaurants of the quality platform Der Wiener Heuriger can be found at: www.wienerwein.at
Wiener Wein in der City
Anyone who wants to enjoy Viennese wine in the middle of the city will find numerous options. Here a selection of restaurants and vinotheques that put special emphasis on the Viennese wine.
Hotel Rathaus Wein & Design
Hotel Rathaus Wein & Design in the 8th district revolves entirely around wine. Each of the 40 rooms is dedicated to a top Austrian vintner, including those from Vienna. Their best wines are also available in the minibar. The modern comfortable city hotel also features a wine lounge with a well-stocked bar. It is often the setting for wine events.
Lange Gasse 13, 1080 Wien, www.hotel-rathaus-wien.at
Weinkeller im Palais Coburg
A total of six different wine cellars arranged according to different themes are located in the historic vaults of Palais Coburg. The Palais is also home to the five-star Palais Coburg Residenz hotel. 60,000 bottles are stored here, the oldest one being from the year 1727. The Coburg cellar is among the best in the world and has been honored with the rare Grand Award by American Wine Spectator since 2007. It was also awarded World’s Best Wine List in 2014 and again in 2017 by The World of Fine Wine magazine. This spectacular wine cellar is also open to the public. Appointments can be made for daily tours and samplings – from the wine stroll including a glass of champagne, to samplings of rare wines.
Coburgbastei 4, 1010 Wien, www.palais-coburg.com
Lokale mit Wiener Wein
Amador
Luxury restaurants with a modern ambience in a historic wine cellar – and the only one in Austria to hold three Michelin stars. A cellar featuring wines from partner Fritz Wieninger complete the experience.
Grinzingerstraße 86, 1190 Wien, www.restaurant-amador.com
Augustinerkeller
A classic of the Viennese restaurant science, this former abbey cellar also boasts a wine bar.
Augustinerstraße 1, 1010 Wien, www.bitzinger.wien
Figls Bierwirtshaus
Excellent selection of Viennese wines in a branch of the well-known city center Schnitzel restaurant.
Grinzinger Straße 55, 1190 Wien, www.figls.at
Grünauer
One of the first noble inns in the city, with traditional cuisine of the highest quality and a rich selection of wines catering to all tastes.
Hermanngasse 32, 1070 Wien, www.gasthaus-gruenauer.com
Heunisch und Erben
Next-generation wine bar, restaurant and shop. Cool and pared down with light, creative cuisine and an out-of-this-world selection of wines. The owners’ preferred appellation: “tavern of hearts”.
Landstrasser Hauptstraße 17, 1030 Wien, www.heunisch.at
Zum Schwarzen Kameel
Drinks and sandwich bar, award-winning pub garden, delicatessen with ham and other delicacies, a fine selection of spirits and wines with many Austrians, small patisserie - all this can be found in the historic ambience of the Schwarzes Kameel.
Bognergasse 5, 1010 Wien, www.kameel.at
Meixner’s Gastwirtschaft
Excellent inn where Vienna expert Karl Meixner offers personal assistance in selecting the best wines.
Buchengasse 64 (Ecke Herndlgasse), 1100 Wien, www.meixners-gastwirtschaft.at
Pfarrwirt
The former inn Zur Schönen Aussicht was renovated in exemplary fashion and now offers creative traditional cuisine, as well as a rich selection of wines with a focus on vineyards owned by Hans Schmid (Mayer am Pfarrhaus, Rotes Haus).
Pfarrplatz 5, 1190 Wien, www.pfarrwirt.com
Plachutta
Viennese beef cuisine of the best quality – and this of course served with the city’s own wine.
Wollzeile 38, 1010 Wien, www.plachutta.at
Prilisauer
Prilisauer is a veritable Viennese institution (established 1882 and now in its fifth generation). Traditional cuisine and fine wines.
Linzer Straße 423, 1140 Wien, www.prilisauer.at
Steirereck im Stadtpark
A total work of culinary art in the middle of the Stadtpark. Next-door offshoot Meierei provides an accessible and laid-back taste of the quintessential Steirereck fine dining experience.
Am Heumarkt 2A, 1030 Wien, www.steirereck.at
Weibel’s Wirtshaus
Traditionelle Wiener Küche mit erlesenen Weinen von einer fantastisch sortierten Weinkarte – mit vielen Halbflaschen und MAGNUMS in gemütlichem Ambiente.
Kumpfgasse 2, 1010 Wien, www.weibel.at
Plachutta
Viennese beef cuisine of the best quality – and this of course served with the city’s own wine.
Wollzeile 38, 1010 Wien, www.plachutta.at
Prilisauer
Prilisauer is a veritable Viennese institution (established 1882 and now in its fifth generation). Traditional cuisine and fine wines.
Linzer Straße 423, 1140 Wien, www.prilisauer.at
Steirereck im Stadtpark
A total work of culinary art in the middle of the Stadtpark. Next-door offshoot Meierei provides an accessible and laid-back taste of the quintessential Steirereck fine dining experience.
Am Heumarkt 2A, 1030 Wien, www.steirereck.at
Weibel’s Wirtshaus
Traditionelle Wiener Küche mit erlesenen Weinen von einer fantastisch sortierten Weinkarte – mit vielen Halbflaschen und MAGNUMS in gemütlichem Ambiente.
Kumpfgasse 2, 1010 Wien, www.weibel.at
Pub Klemo Weinbar & Shop
The perfect place for wine aficionados – with virtually everything covered, from skin-fermented orange wine to aged Barolo. Lots of open wines and a constantly spinning carousel of themed tastings.
Weinbar: Margaretenstraße 61, 1050
Shop: Wehrgasse 1, 1050
Shop: Köllnerhofgasse 2, 1010
www.pubklemo.com
Zum Schwarzen Kameel
Drinks and sandwich bar, award-winning pub garden, delicatessen with ham and other delicacies, a fine selection of spirits and wines with many Austrians, small patisserie - all this can be found in the historic ambience of the Schwarzes Kameel.
Bognergasse 5, 1010 Wien, www.kameel.at
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Author: Klaus Egle, journalist and author (Wine & Cuisine)
Sept. 2022
